Angel on the Bay

Posted on September 2, 2009 
Filed Under Lifestyle

Labor Day weekend is almost here, and for many Bay Area dwellers, the budget might be a little tight for long-distance travel. So, what’s there to do close by this weekend? Well, there happens to be a little drop of paradise right in the middle of the Bay, and chances are it’s been on your list of places to go for quite a while—Angel Island.

In addition to being a beautiful piece of wilderness within sight of San Francisco, Berkeley, and Oakland, and a stone’s throw from Belvedere and Tiburon, Angel Island is also a treasure trove of local history. There are many tour-worthy historic buildings and landmarks on the island that offer a peek into the Bay Area’s past.

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The Miwok Indians made use of the island’s resources for thousands of years before the Spanish arrived and began using it as a base for exploring the Bay Area’s waterways in 1775. Angel Island began its U.S. Military career as early as the Civil War and played a defensive role in both World Wars. The years before the turn of the century saw the establishment of both a quarantine station for foreign ships and their passengers, as well as an immigration station. Billed as “The Ellis Island of the West” the Immigration Station was actually more of a detention center, used to control the influx of Chinese immigrants, who were officially unwelcome with the passage of the Chinese Exclusion Act of 1882. Some 175,000 Chinese came to Angel Island over the course of the station’s 30 years in operation.

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Angel Island is now a wonderful escape from the buzz of the city, and you don’t even have to get in a car—perfect since the Bay Bridge will be closed Sept. 3-8. The Blue and Gold Ferry departs from The Ferry Building (easily accessible by BART) and Pier 41. The ferry ride is a big part of the fun. There’s nothing like sitting on the deck in the Bay wind, sipping a bloody mary, watching Alcatraz slip by as sailboats flit and dart in front of the Golden Gate Bridge.

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To prepare for a holiday party on Angel Island, all you really need is an empty bag and a corkscrew. Arrive at the Ferry Building an hour early and stock up on a few gourmet sundries from the local merchants: Acme for a loaf of delicious crusty bread, Cowgirl Creamery for some artisan cheese, Boccalone for handcrafted salami, Farm Fresh To You for organic fruit, and of course the Wine Merchant for a bottle of wine or two. Out The Door offers The Slanted Door’s renowned Vietnamese cuisine for take-out. If you’re feeling more ambitious about your picnic fare, bring charcoal—grills are provided, but wood fires are a big no-no. (There is still some visible fire damage on the West side of the island from last year’s accident.) If all food planning fails, have no fear. The Cove Café has beer, wine, signature burgers, oysters on the half shell, and a deliciously juicy shrimp ceviche.

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If the idea of indulgently lazing around by the water on the green lawn of the picnic area, occasionally getting up to play Frisbee, somehow sounds like a bore, you’re in luck. There are plenty of activities on Angel Island. Bring a bike or rent one there and ride around the perimeter road for a rare view of San Francisco. Take a docent-led tour of the Immigration Station Detention Barracks Museum, Fort McDowell, and Camp Reynolds, or a wildflower nature hike up Mt. Livermore. If lazy sounds pretty good, motorized tram and Segway tours are also options, and there are many more.

Just remember, unless you’re prepared to camp overnight (another great way to holiday on Angel Island, but reservations must be made well in advance), make sure you don’t miss the last boat back to the mainland. The ferry waits for no man.

Angel Island Ferry Tickets can be purchased online or in the Ferry Building for $15 round trip. The Ferry docks at the North end of the building, and departs at 9:20 and 11:20am. Check schedule for return trips. Ferry service to Angel Island is also offered from Alameda/Oakland, Tiburon, and Vallejo.

–Sara

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