Cooking With Soul

Posted on April 22, 2009 
Filed Under Downtown/Civic Center, Food & Drink

farmerbrowns_restaurant

Southerners are known the world over for their gentility and generosity of spirit. It may not be a coincidence then that Southern cuisine is some of the most satisfying around. Who could possibly be cross with a stomach full of down-home delicacies? Sweet potato, okra, collard greens, fried green tomatoes, short ribs— food for the soul indeed.

The renewed interest in and reinvention of comfort food has been facilitated by the ever-increasing popularity of organic ingredients. The soul food of old, characterized by deep-fry, lard, and mountains of sugar, has evolved. And, in much the same way, eating healthy no longer means your taste buds have to go on hiatus. Farm-fresh soul food might be the most agreeable-sounding oxymoron I’ve ever heard.

And with the help of restaurants like Farmer Brown, soul food’s health-unconscious perception may soon be a thing of the past. Chef Jay Foster is looking to pay homage to the South’s great culinary heritage and introduce Bay-area residents to a new pleasure that isn’t quite so guilty. Now what could be more genteel than that?

Gumbo (daily variations) — a faithful preparation of the New Orleans staple

Gumbo (daily variations) — a faithful preparation of the New Orleans staple

Crispy Cornmeal Catfish with candied yams, green tomato, pickled onion and fresh romano beans

Crispy Cornmeal Catfish with candied yams, pickled onion and fresh romano beans

Fried Chicken with tillamook cheddar cheese macaroni and mashed potatoes

Fried Chicken with tillamook cheddar cheese macaroni and garlic mashed potatoes

Farmer Brown is located at 25 Mason Street (at Market Street) in San Francisco. One block west of BART’s Powell Station. Call 415-409-FARM for reservations.

—Michael

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Comments

One Response to “Cooking With Soul”

  1. Sally on April 22nd, 2009 10:19 am

    I love Farmer Brown! Avoid their brunch, though :)

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